Note publique d'information : LES ENTREPRISES FRANCAISES DE L'HABILLEMENT, A TRAVERS LEUR LENT PROCESSUS D'INDUSTRIALISATION,
PERMETTENT DE FAIRE RESSORTIR LES DECALAGES ET DYSFONCTIONNEMENTS QUI CARACTERISENT
UNE CONFIGURATION TAYLORIENNE FORDIENNE CONCRETE PAR RAPPORT AU MODELE THEORIQUE GENERIQUE
CONSTRUIT PAR REFERENCE AUX INDUSTRIES METAL-MECANIQUES. DANS LES ANNEES 1920, LES
TECHNIQUES TAYLORIENNES COMMENCENT A S'IMPOSER DANS LES ATELIERS INDUSTRIELS FRANCAIS
: MAIS, LES ENTREPRISES DE L'HABILLEMENT Y RESTENT LARGEMENT IMPERMEABLES. ELLES FONT
FACE A LA CONTRAINTE DE MINIMISATION DES TEMPS DE FABRICATION PAR UN RECOURS CENTRAL
A UNE GESTION DISCIPLINAIRE DE LEUR MAIN-D'OEUVRE OUVRIERE. DE 1945 A 1975, L'ELITE
PATRONALE DE LA BRANCHE ADHERE AUX PRINCIPES DE PARTAGE DES GAINS DE PRODUCTIVITE
ET DE CONTRACTUALISATION DES RELATIONS PROFESSIONNELLES ENCOURAGES PAR LA CONJONCTURE
DE CROISSANCE. MAIS DANS LA PRATIQUE, LES CHEFS D'ENTREPRISE DE L'HABILLEMENT CONTINUENT
DE MISER SUR UNE GESTION DISCIPLINAIRE DE LA MAIN-D'OEUVRE, PROFITANT DE L'IMPLANTATION
DES UNITES DE FABRICATION EN ZONES RURALES. SUITE AUX LUTTES DE L'APRES 1968 ET DANS
LE CONTEXTE DE LA CRISE, LES PATRONS DE L'HABILLEMENT S'OUVRENT AUSSI A LA GESTION
PARTICIPATIVE. MAIS GREFFEE SUR LA GESTION DISCIPLINAIRE ET EXTERIEURE A TOUTE FORMALISATION
LEGALISATION DES RELATIONS DE TRAVAIL, LA GESTION PARTICIPATIVE FAVORISE D'ABORD L'AUTO-ACCEPTATION
OUVRIERE DIRECTE DES NORMES DE PRODUCTION QUI SONT IMPOSEES SANS AUCUNE CONCERTATION.
Note publique d'information : THE STUDY OF FRENCH CLOTHING INDUSTRIES THROUGH THEIR PROCESS OF INDUSTRIALIZATION
REVEALS THE LAG AND DYSFUNCTIONING THAT CHARACTERIZE THIS CONCRETE TAYLORIAN FORDIAN
CONFIGURATION IN COMPARISON WITH THE GENERIC THEORETICAL MODEL BUILT IN REFERENCE
TO THE METAL-BASED INDUSTRIES. IN THE 1920S TAYLORIAN TECHNIQUES BEGAN TO DOMINATE
IN FRENCH INDUSTRIAL WORKSHOPS: THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY WAS, HOWEVER, LARGELY UNAFFECTED.
IT CONFRONTED THE CONSTRAINTS OF MINIMIZING MANUFACTURING TIME THROUGH CENTRALIZED,
DISCIPLINARY MANAGEMENT OF LABOR. FROM 1945 THROUGH 1975 THE MANAGEMENT ELITE OF THE
CLOTHING INDUSTRY SUSCRIBED TO THE PRINCIPLES OF PROFIT-SHARING AND TO THE CONTRACTUALIZATION
OF PROFESSIONAL RELATIONS FAVORED DURING PERIODS OF GROWTH. IN PRACTICE, HOWEVER,
HEADS OF CLOTHING FIRMS CONTINUED TO RELY ON DISCIPLINARY MANAGEMENT OF LABOR, TAKING
EDVANTAGE OF THE ESTABLISHMENT OF FACTORIES IN RURAL AREAS. FOLLOWING THE POST-1968
LABOR STRUGGLES, AND WITHIN A CRISIS CONTEXT, MANAGERS IN THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY ARE
NOW ACCEPTING PARTICIPATIVE MANAGEMENT. HOWEVER, SINCE THIS APPROACH IS LINKED TO
DISCIPLINARY MANAGEMENT AND OPERATES OUTSIDE OF ANY FORMAL OR LEGAL STRUCTURE OF LABOR
RELATIONS, IT FAVORS FIRST THE DIRECT SELF-ACCEPTANCE BY LABOR OF PRODUCTION NORMS
THAT ARE IMPOSED BY MANAGEMENT WITHOUT ANY FORM OF CONSULTATION.